This Category has no FAQ yet
This Category has no FAQ yet
This Category has no FAQ yet
A healthy lawn requires about 1 inch of water per week. As a general rule water thoroughly but infrequently for deeper roots. Light, frequent watering produces a shallow, weak root system.
You can put a tuna/pet can around sprinkler and measure in 30 min. For 1 inch you would leave on for about 2 hours.
The best time to water is early morning for two reasons
1. You have 50% less water loss than the day or evening due to evaporation
2. Grass stays wet later in the day increasing risk of disease
* Water deeply and less often
* Gradually raise mowing height 25-50% for deeper roots
* Sharp mower blades; torn leaf blades increase moisture loss and stress
* Shade the soil
Lawns can remain dormant for 2-3 months and still recover!
-* Drought-tolerant grass
* Test and amend the soil
* Add organic matter as top-dressing whenever possible
* Mow high
* Leave grass clippings on the lawn
* Water early morning
* Apply fertilizer in fall
* Install water-efficient irrigation system
* Avoid runoff
* Aerate compacted soils
* When you are fertilizing a lawn, a little nitrogen goes a long way to provide a more dense, established lawn.
* If your soil has too much nitrogen, that means more mowing, thatch and disease.
*Depending on your devotion to your lawn:
Low-maintenance - fertilize 1x per year
Medium-maintenenace - fertilize 2-3x per year
High-maintenance - fertilize 3-4x per year
* One-third rule- mow when the lawn gets 1/3 taller than recommended height. If you want 2 inches, mow at 3 inches.
* Harvesting- Quickly reduce height of grass can traumatize lawn. Changing balance between top growth and roots shocks the plant.
* Gradually reduce mowing height until recommended height is acheived
* Misconception that the shorter you cut lawn, slower it will grow
* Keep Midwest Lawns 2 1/2- 3 1/2 Inches tall
* Cut whenever 3 1/2 - 4 inches
* Mowing with sharp blades can reduce fuel by 20%
* Soil compaction causes poor root growth, poor oxygen to roots, poor water filtration
* Dont mow in the same direction
* Scalping grass will kill a lawn
* Shorter grass produces shallow roots less tolerant of drougt and allows more sunlight to reach soil, producing more weeds
* Grass roots usually mirror grass blades. Taller grass, deeper roots
* 1,000 sq. ft. lawn can generate 200 lbs of clippings per year
* Clippings contain 4% Nitrogen (N), 2% Phosphorus (P), .5% Potassium (K)
* Can add 1 lb of Nitrogen per 1000 sq. ft. each season
* Recycle clippings as mulch in garden and compost pile
Thatch is partially decayed grass between the soil and leaf blades. Composed of roots, rhizomes and stolons, not grass clippings. The growth cycle; plants parts age, die and decompose into humus. Rapid, excessive lawn growth is major cause, over fertilziing and over watering.
* Thin layer under 1/2 inch is good. Cushions and mulchs ground
* Over 1/2 inch prevents water and fertilizer from reaching soil, harbors insects and disease and leads to shallow root systems\
* Overseed after de-thatching
* Shred leaves and leave on lawn for organic matter and nutrients
Decaying plant materials and compost manure enrich and loosen soil, improve drainage of clay soils, hold water and nutrients in sandy soils, slows down eroision and provides favorable environment for earth worms.
* Add or till phosphorous, lime, sulfur, potassium, and organic matter to top 6-8 inches (root zone) of soil
* Add just before seeding to release fast release nitrogen
* Bluegrass - For sunny locations
* Fescues - Shade tolerant
* Ryegrass - Quick cover
* Best times to sed are late summer/early fall and than mid to late spring
* Dont seed in hot days of summer
* Dormant seeding in late fall. Sow seed when soil temperature drops under 45 degrees. Snow acts as a winter mulch.
If you think you are getting Crabgrass before June, you habe Tall Fescue or Quackgrass. Crabgrass does not germinate here in the Midwest until the end of June or early July. Tall Fescue and Quackgrass are two grass plants that are uncontrollable. The only way to rid your lawn of these grass plants is to either dig them out manually OR use Round-Up and seed 6 weeks later. Please note that Round-Up WILL kill off your Kentucky Bluegrass plants (good grass). Therefore. use with caution and be informed that Round-Up bleeds. Use a garden weasel to manually slit seed your grass seed.
* We do not treat for Quackgrass or Tall Fescue
Very effective! 97-98% of the mosquitos in your yard will be gone almost immediately. However mosquitos coming in property must land on treated areas.
The product we use has excellent residual activity and efficacy. However there are some variables to length of treatment. An application usually lasts approximately 30 days. Often two applications 30-40 days apart are all that is needed for the mosquito season
The product we use is one of the least toxic products available and is only lethal to the insect. The product is dry to the touch within 30 minutes of application. Once the product is dry your yard can be enjoyed by your children and pets.
The price varies with the size of your property and the amount of vegetation being sprayed. The cost for an average yard is $150-$200 for two application package. It is best if you call for a free quote so we can custom price your property.
* We determine our prices on what we have to spray, not on square footage.
* Call Chris at 262-384-1192 to come and give a free quote
We have a list of 40 different insects that are controlled or eliminated with our treatment. The most common of them being mosquitos, ants, wasps, spiders, japanese beetles, box elders, flies, earwigs, millipedes and ticks.
No. The product is designed to withstand normal amounts of rainfall and to gradually evaporate over time. We do not gurantee that the product will last through abnormally high amounts of rain.
* Make a sketch of yard and landscape design
* Use curves not corners when designing new garden beds
* Use hose, rope, spray paint for pattern
* Young trees are often stunted when grass is allowed to grow up to trunk
* Trees, shrubs and flowers put in mulch beds
* Design large planting beds that include several existing trees and shrubs
* Kill grass and mulch area
* Mower blight- damage tree trunk by mowing and weeding
* Mower strips for beds
* Keep grass out of flowers and flat surface for mower tires
* Replace worn turf with brick, concrete or woodchips for walkway
* Ground covers- Ajuga, thyme, sweet woodruff, canadian ginger, hosta and dead nettle
* Water shaded lawns 3-4 inches of soil
* In moss gardens add flagstones which are usually under tree or north of house
* Collect pieces, mix with water and spray paint on bare spots